Finishing a race in the top 3 in any course allows the player to view an 'ending' and see the game credits.Īn addition to the game was the 'slingshot', corresponding to advanced NASCAR drafting techniques. By request, an arcade operator could put the game on Grand Prix or Endurance mode to increase the number of laps in a game. It is recommended, however, that the player has had mastery of the course beforehand. Like the original game, mirrored versions of the tracks can also be played by holding down the Start button when selecting the course. The 'time lap' mode also returns, and is accessed in the same manner – by holding down start at the transmission select screen. Just like before, the game has three courses – a Beginner course with 8 laps with a distance of 1 mile (1.6 km), an Advanced course with 4 laps with a distance of 2.5 miles (4 km), and a long Expert course with 2 laps with a distance of 5 miles (8 km). A notable change from the original is the ability to select a car and corresponding driver, each with varying capabilities for varying levels of player experience. The majority of Daytona USA 2 cabinets were released as deluxe models (with far fewer Twin Cabinets), which could be linked together for up to sixteen players. The game featured vastly superior graphics, utilizing the Sega Model 3 hardware.

Kjobin is right - always check your power, both INTO the game from the outlet, and INSIDE the game, at the power supply.5 /5Daytona USA 2: Battle on the Edge is an arcade racing game released by Sega in 1998 as a follow-up to the extremely successful Daytona USA. I've seen all of these things over the year. Amateur Electrical Installation (combinations of the above issues) Main feed line in overloaded (your neighbor hooked up an inverter, and is running a 240 v AC three phase welder.) (If you see the lights dim, and a strobe / flash effect from one of the neighbors, you might want to strike up a conversation)ġ0.

Power panel overloaded (100 amp service being over-taxed)ĩ. above, major load on the circuit elsewhere.Ĩ. Multiple outlets on the same circuit (power drain)ħ. Loose wires / neutral at the circuit breaker panel.Ħ. Aluminum wires tied to copper terminals.Ĥ. 15 amp service being taxed over limits.Ģ. There are also the following circuit headache potentials: (the whole list)ġ. Now add in two power hungry machines, and you get a voltage drop where the weakest of the two will shut down. If you have a long run of 14 gauge wire, you will have a voltage drop (regardless of the source voltage). It isn't the size of the transformer itself that is critical - it's the entire wiring run. Only in the sound boards were there any other voltages such as 12v. Daytona's and model 1/2/3 systems are very picky about 5v, they have to be on the dot and be able to sustain the load because the Model system boards never used more than 5v on the CPU/GPU side so it would draw more than most JAMMA boards. With the Daytona though i think is that the power supply is not sustaining a load when the GPU and CPU are working harder. So honestly its no surprise that running a load of games in one circuit is probably going to cause drop outs on one end possibly. However, it appears that only a few or one pin has a tendency to blackout under the load since his outside transformer is heavy enough for a lock in night, but nothing else in his place does. His name is Charlie, owns Joysticks Amusements in downtown Houston, has a row of pins along one wall of his place and when they are all running.well you know they suck up juice. I've got a buddy in the business that has an issue similar to this, not with a Daytona but a pinball machine.

Daytona usa 2 mame rom